When the Monsoon Moves In: Reflections from the Uttarakhand Himalayas
The 'Announcement' in the Night Every year in early July, news platforms announce the advance of the southwest monsoon into North India, as meteorologists explain its progress with weather maps and rainfall forecasts. Those reports, no doubt, are scientifically precise, but they say very little about what the arrival of the monsoon actually feels like in a Himalayan town. I was reminded of that around a week ago. It was around 2 am. It had already been raining heavily for a few hours. Unlike the scattered pre-monsoon showers of previous weeks, this was continuous, determined rain. The kind that settles in rather than merely passing through. Then came the siren. Living close to the Ganga, we occasionally hear warning sirens whenever the upstream UJVN dam is about to release excess accumulated water. Its purpose is to warn people to stay away from downstream river-banks. That night, however, the experience was unlike anything I'd had before. At around 2 am, the first long si...