When the Monsoon Moves In: Reflections from the Uttarakhand Himalayas
Every year in early July, news platforms announce the advance of the southwest monsoon into North India, as meteorologists explain its progress with weather maps and rainfall forecasts. Those reports, no doubt, are scientifically precise, but they say very little about what the arrival of the monsoon actually feels like in a Himalayan town. I was reminded of that around a week ago. It was around 2 am. It had already been raining heavily for a few hours. Unlike the scattered pre-monsoon showers of previous weeks, this was continuous, determined rain. The kind that settles in rather than merely passing through. Then came the siren. Living close to the Ganga, we occasionally hear warning sirens whenever heavy rainfall upstream causes the river to swell. Their purpose is to warn people to stay away from the riverbanks. That night, however, the experience was unlike anything I'd had before. The first long siren echoed across the valley. Before it faded, another siren farther along the ...