Living Between the Yatras: Reflections from a Himalayan Pilgrimage Town
The Annual Arrival There is a particular way in which Uttarkashi changes when the pilgrimage season gathers momentum. One does not need a government notice or a calendar to know that the Char Dham Yatra is underway. One can simply walk along the Gangotri Highway. The road becomes visibly busier, with pilgrims travelling in buses and minibuses, tourist groups moving in vans and utility vehicles, families in their personal cars, and motorcyclists making their way towards the higher reaches. There are also adventure travellers, and, in smaller numbers, young couples looking for a Himalayan getaway. The town acquires a different rhythm. Hotels along the main road become visibly busy. People can often be seen outside them, moving luggage, waiting for vehicles, gathering before departure, or returning from the day's journey. The same pattern extends beyond the town, with numerous hotels and lodging establishments along the highways becoming important stopping points for pilgrims and tou...